CSIR (Council of Scientific & Industrial Research) Earth Sciences Physical Geography-Geomorphology Study Material (Page 10 of 90)

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Geomorphology (Geomorphic Processes and Landforms - Coastal) ; Introduction, Coastal Zones, Waves and Tides, Geomorphology of Coasts, Divisions of Coastal Zones, Five Major Zones, Features of Shoreline

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Introduction

  • Geomorphology is the study of landforms formed by various geological agents.
  • Waves and currents are important dynamic, never-ending mechanisms that act on coastal areas among geological agents.
  • Seas and oceans are constantly sculpting the edges of continents, resulting in a variety of landforms along the coasts.
  • Coastal zones are extremely vulnerable.
  • The continental shelves and near-shore areas cover about 5% of the world՚s land area.
  • Despite this, two-thirds of the world՚s population lives near coasts around the world.
  • Throughout history, people have been drawn to settle along the coasts.
  • It is pr…

… (635 more words, 31 figures) …

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Beach Cycles; Features of a Coastline, Forces Acting on Shorelines, Sea Waves, Classification of Waves, Longshore Drift, Tides, Tidal Currents, Long-Shore Currents

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Beach Cycles

  • The ability of a beach to rebuild itself makes it a formidable fortress against the sea.
  • Whereas headlands and cliffs erode, beaches can withstand the wrath of the sea.
  • A beach can store and grow sand over years of good sea winds, few rains or storms, and plenty of sunshine.
  • The sand pump causes the beach to become steeper as it pumps sand from the wet beach.
  • The beach can erode and lie flatter during years with opposing conditions.
  • Based on these characteristics, beaches are classified as having high, low, or moderate energy.
  • Summer months are typically marked by high energy levels.
  • The onset of monsoon causes an increase in wave height, resulting in significa…

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